Fregoli @ Ebisu

November 29, 2023 Dave Perry

***White asparagus in butter and parmesan***

***Charcoal grilled venison with watercress and simmered lotus root***

Ranked among Tabelog’s Top 100 Renowned Italian Tokyo Restaurants, chef Tomohiro Kai’s Fregoli is a cosy affair specializing in simple, robust Italian cooking with a focus on Kumamoto horse, game meats and hearty seasonal pastas.

A selection of delicious world wines complement these bold tasting dishes, which can be enjoyed for lunch or dinner while relaxing amidst the eclectic mix of movie and music memorabilia adoring the dining room.

Fregoli

03 5423 1225

Mama Sushi @ Ichikawa

October 22, 2023 Dave Perry

Tucked away in an aging, multi-tenant building opposite Ichikawa station, Mama Sushi is a real gem, providing high quality sushi, great cost performance and wonderful Shōwa-retro vibes.

In business since the early 1970s, this venerable sushi-ya’s aging facade and faded window display can feel a little intimidating. However, for those brave enough to cross the threshold, a fun and delicious indulgence in fresh, chunky sushi washed down with quaffable Nihonshu awaits.

Mama Sushi

047 323 2783

Hokkai @ Oyamadai

September 28, 2023 Dave Perry

An old favourite and perennial reason to visit Oyamadai’s Happy Road shōtengai, Hokkai is a popular Chinese eatery known for its delicious machi chūka standards and excellent cost performance.

As well as its much admired discount set lunches and nostalgic Shōwa aesthetics, the sizeable gyōza, moreish fried rice and rich tasting miso rāmen are not to be missed.

Hokkai

03 3705 8255

Hyōtan Zushi @ Tenjin

August 30, 2023 Dave Perry

***Tai, kanpachi, aburisalmontoro, ika, anago***

Dating back to 1964, Hyōtan Zushi is a splendid Fukuoka sushi-ya specialising in generous portions of “cheap and delicious sushi” and seasonal seafood (mostly sourced from the local Genkai Sea), described by a diner with three decades of visits under their belt as a “consistently exceptional dining experience.”

An oft cited guidebook entry, and popular among locals, daily queues are the norm and waits lengthy, ranging from 60 to 90 minutes. Arriving at 10:30am for the 11:30am opening usually guarantees entry at the first sitting. We, along with Hakata locals, usually shun such queues, but the heightened anticipation and eventual dining experience are worth it.

Spread across two floors, the bright, clean and surprisingly spacious interior provides counter, table and horigotatsu seating, tended to by a team of hospitable floor staff and affable sushi chefs. Menus are available in English, Japanese and Korean.

Hyōtan Zushi

092 722 0010

Kushizen @ Gakugei-Daigaku

July 27, 2023 Dave Perry

***Appetizer of stewed pork, beans, carrot and lotus root***

***tomato bacon-maki topped with cheese***

Although we tend to eschew chain stores, some are admittedly worth a visit. Gakugei-Daigaku’s Kushizen is just such a one, belonging to a small chain covering Kawasaki City, and Tokyo’s Meguro, Setagaya, Sugunami and Nakano wards.

The restaurant is bright and spacious, priding itself on its cleanliness and suitability for hardened yakitori fans and families alike, but can feel somewhat lacking in character.

Thankfully, the quality of the yakitori and other dishes more than make amends for any shortcomings in atmosphere and decor. Every dish, from the surprisingly good appetisers, succulent negima and tender sasami topped with Genovese sauce are cooked with care and served in generous portions, delivering satisfaction and excellent cost performance.

Kushizen

03 3793 0677